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I have been running castrol syntec 5w-30 in my silverado from day one. Whats your brand? Is there a reason you selected it? I picked the castrol brand because it was a bit cheaper than Mobil.
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Mobil Delvac 1 full synthetic 5W-40 diesel engine. Simply the finest diesel engine oil, providing a full 40 weight oil thickness protection and a superior additive package capable of providing oil change intervals of up to 100,000 miles for over the road trucks. Delvac 1 flows to 65 degrees BELOW zero, enabling instantaneous cold weather starting and oil flow yet does not thin out with high temperatures. You will be amazed with the instantaneous starting with Delvac 1 and its overall performance! If your diesel is EGR valve equipped, Delvac 1 is your answer for long lasting, trouble free EGR operation! Mineral based diesel oils create an almost resin like substance in as little as 25,000 miles, causing the EGR valve to stick. Delvac 1's 100% "real" synthetic base stock (as opposed to Group III wannabee synthetic base stocks) stands up to the grueling temps, providing trouble free EGR performance!
Not to knock Castrol Syntec (as it is what I use in wifes car) but it is a base 3 synthetic.
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Just castrol gtx high mileage, been using it in my yota for some time now since its over 100k. I dont know if it does much but it doesnt cost to much more than regular gtx.
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I've ran Shell Rotella 15w-40 in all my diesels without a problem (and I used my diesels for hard work, not just driving around). Most everyone that I know that has diesels use it as well. I believe Cummins reccommends it in their engines and many OTR trucks do as well. If it's good enough for them it's good enough for mine.
In my gas burners, I've always ran Valvoline 10w-30. no reason, just what I've always used.
Never have used the synthetics...just couldn't justify the extra price for only marginal gain in performance.
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My 67 GMC beater gets whats cheaper it loves to run and doesn't seem to care.. Been a great truck with the V-6 305E engine had it for almost ten years and I have abused it and it just keeps running... The HD gets HD 20w50 and the wifes dodge gets Valovine 10w30 never used synteic change it two often..
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I use the Wal-Mart stuff. It's supposedly either Quaker State or Valvoline (I forgot which) and just repackaged.
At $.88/qt you can't go wrong. But, then again, I don't have a diesel or newer vehicle, so I'm not concerned about having top-grade stuff in my engine as long as it gets changed regularly.
quote:Originally posted by Wartrace: I have been running castrol syntec 5w-30 in my silverado from day one. Whats your brand? Is there a reason you selected it? I picked the castrol brand because it was a bit cheaper than Mobil.
I hope you realize it's not really "synthetic" oil like Mobil 1. web page
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I use Mobil 1 in some stuff (generally 5W20) and Amsoil in others.
Really, it depends on how the engines were built, my 4x4 has a 'loose' engine so it'll wind and not fly apart, (hense, I use heavier oil) and my other truck has a 'tight' engine so I use ultra thin oil in it.
Just depends on the condition of what it's going into, mileage, ect... I've got my own voodoo I use to choose oil, so to speak.
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It is far more important to have the oil and filters changed on a regular basis than is the brand of motor oil you choose... My favorite is Castrol 20W50 but there's nothing wrong with the Wal-mart 20W50 either, espeically if you change your oil and filter in a timely regular manner....
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Penzoil seems to leave a dense film under the valve covers according to my cousin who is a mechanic with Econo lube and tune. he also does not like quaker state for the same reason.
I use amsoil and have since 1976. All our cars are bought new and then run forever. Toyota truck went 15 years, sisters mercury bobcat went for 11 years, my mercury comet went 7 years, all with pretty high mileage. I believe that friction tests prove that amsoil is better than mobil 1, but if mobil 1 has a new formulation that may not be true still. Just my .02, YMMV, pun intended. I get usually almost two miles per gallon better with the synthetic, but I put it in the tranny, the grease zerks, the rear end, if there is one, the transaxle, everything.
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Mobile 1 10w30 in the Z-28. Change once a year or 6000 miles, which it never accumulates in that year.
Mobile 1 also goes in the generator.
Truck (2005 Chevy HD) gets 10w30 Pennzoil at the dealer's.
AC filters all around.
I ran 20W racing oil (mineral base)in the Super Latemodel and bearings looked brand new after a full season of hard running to 8000 RPM and 220 degrees temp. NEVER had a bearing problem.
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If you want to learn about motor oil, BobIsTheOilGuy forum is the place to go.The biggest thing I've learned is that you can have your used oil analyzed to see the condition of your engine.There is also a bunch of info there that seperates advertising hype from fact.
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Royal Purple. It's a 100% synthetic. Vehicles run around 10 degrees cooler and get 1-2 MPG better mileage. That plus double the life between changes make this at worst a break-even proposition, and at best I'm saving money.
I was a real doubter of the claims made for synthetics, but I let my mechanic buddy talk me into it for one oil change on one vehicle. Now it's in everything except the lawnmowers and the gennerator, and it'll be in the genny on the next change. The mowers are old and tired, but new ones will get the same treatment.
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I usually run the Royal Purple in my drivetrain, but use the Rotella for warranty reasons. I can attest that their gear oils work great and make shifting easier at least in the bolt actions. AMSOIL is hard to find around here but RP is somewhat easier so that's why I went with it.
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mobil 1 Syn we have run it in all are vehicles and have gotten better mpg than epa estimates in all of them. Lets say shtf and you had to really work your vehicle and were denied the the conviences of regular service that you enjoy today. What kind of oil would you want in in bov when the hammer hits? good stuff, or whatever was cheapest?
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My owners manual for my Nissan says to change oil every 8k to 10k miles I've always thought 3800 miles but i get around to changing every 4k miles. Nissan probally says 8-10k so you'll burn the engine up quiker.
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Harley: Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin. Diesel vehicles: Rotella T 15w40. Diesel generator and tractor: Rotella T 30. Jeeps, VWs and Japanese motorcycles: Castrol GTX 20w50.
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I was running valvoline in everything I own but since I picked up TONS of Delo 400 for 99cent a GAL at that autozone sale I'll be running that in everything. Its strait 30wt so I tossed a qrt of 5w30 in there for winter time.
In my D150 I was using mobil one. Changed the oil every 10K and the mobile one filter every 5K.
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I use Citgo 5w30 (2003 Blazer) and Trop Artic Synthetic Blend 5w30 and Trop Artic 10w30 depending on weather(95 Chev WT 1500 pick-up) . I change at 3000 miles and use the Wal-Mart Tech oil filters.
Mower, tiller, log splitter, generator, use appropriate thickness whatever depending on season.
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One of our "Farm" stores had a sale on 5 Gallon buckets of Shell Rotella "T" in 15W40. I'm switching over to it for all my gas trucks and diesel generator. 1 oil and 3 different oil filters to stock.
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Cool! I didn't realize there were so many motorheads here. I use Mobil 1 in the yard machines, but still use dino in the Dodges (96 Ram 2500HD and 99 Dakota). I did an Auto-RX on both trucks last year. The Ram with 100,000 on it stoped using up a quart of oil every 1200 - 1500 miles. Seventh is right on with doing regular OFL's to keep your engine running well (assuming a good grade oil is used). I'm sure the primo stuff some of you are using does help and I'm certainly not knocking using it. I'm on BITOG often myself.
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I've always thought 3800 miles but i get around to changing every 4k miles. Nissan probally says 8-10k so you'll burn the engine up quiker.
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